How to Get Blades to Stop Turning When Disengaged

Every bit has been suggested an image of the drive side of your machine with the cover off will help. Machines that tension the chugalug to engage the drive usually rely on the belt springing clear (slightly) of the driving pulley to disengage the bulldoze. To assist this there’due south often a peg or arm that restricts the sideways burl in the slack belt and causes it to slightly gondola off the top driving pulley.  Such pegs are often adjustable.

A couple of decent images of the belt in both the engaged ( tensioned) and disengaged positions may give a clue to the crusade of your event.

Skilful images. It does look as through the cable operated jockey pulley is withal pressing on the cutter drive belt even though in the disengaged position. Perhaps the cable is hanging up a bit and not assuasive the jockey to fully return or perhaps the pulley arm’s  pivot is in need of lubrication .

Y’all haven’due north mentioned changing the belt but is it the right one?

Difficult to diagnose remotely merely the inner cable may be sticking in the outer. Tin can you push the jockey wheel farther away from the belt than its nowadays natural render position?

Alternatively has the belt  become “hairy or sticky” ?

If you take a shut look at the plastic bearing housing behind the upper chugalug pulley there are spikes that deed as belt belt rests when the tension is released. Information technology looks to me as though the spike in front of the cylinder drive belt has worn away at information technology’s uang lelah allowing the chugalug to bypass it.

Like but not the same but it’s just possible to brand out the belt sprung away from the V of the caster.

The divide pinion is interesting. When the “plastic” pinions were kickoff introduced they were splitting on a regular ground and then Qualcast upgraded them to a tougher material and to help with stock control and Warranty etc they were tinted pink. And then unless they eventually went back to patently white your white one has survived well.

I remember that I’ve confused you by talking about the pinion ( cog if you must) ! In one of your first images.

Hillsider was pointing out what appears to exist a keeper peg that has been worn away. I would file the elevation border flat, find something that’south a adept fit in the hollow stem that remains. ( may be a nail with the caput cut off) and then observe something hollow of a similar sengkang to the remaining stump  – perchance the barrel of a ball point pen – insert and glue boom followed past pen barrel .

Other options are available merely all preferable to renewing the whole fangdangle !

Here is the part that you require for your mower, strangely when looking at parts lists for your chassis number a completely different arrangement is shown for the chugalug guide all very confusing and I had the same keburukan myself a while agone.

https://www.jungle-busters.co.britain/Atco-Balmoral-Qualcast-Classic-Suffolk…

Y’all volition see hither  that there are four spikes that human action as belt guides the two shorter ones are for the rear roller bulldoze belt and information technology was one of those missing on the motorcar that I repaired. In my case the mower drove off equally presently as the engine fired up.